I have a cheap/quick/dirty deer and rabbit fence around our vegetable garden. The doors are simple PVC squares with deer netting that used to attach to the fence via hooks at the top. This design turned out to be very fiddly. The new design seems much easier to manage - simply drop the door section into its slot.

  • TootSweet@lemmy.worldEnglish
    6·
    8 days ago

    I never would have thought to print them at an angle like that, but thinking it through, I bet relative to other obvious-ish options, it a) improved part strength (particularly along the axes where you most need strength), b) saved a bit of material, c) improved bed adhesion. Smart move in general. I’ll have to keep that approach in mind for my own prints.

    • IMALlama@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      8·
      8 days ago

      Printing things at a 45 degree angle is a magic cheat code for tons of overhangs. It can also help give your prints more resolution as most designs tend to not care if the “tall” layers are diagonally oriented.

      • morbidcactus@lemmy.caEnglish
        2·
        4 days ago

        I did some testing for some parts for my dad, he keeps bees and lost a shaft support for one of his tools when he was reassembling it, he whipped up a replacement and fired me the stl when I was talking about my printers.

        Printing with the shaft in the z needed a lot of supports,

        laying it on its “back” was by far the easiest, outside of the support looked a little gross, could have benefitted from supports. Did them all in petg, gave them all to him just so he can get a feel for what 3D printed parts look like as he’s interested in getting one himself (trying to sell him on a v0 if he’s not sure, but kinda thinking about doing a trident)

        • IMALlama@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
          2·
          4 days ago

          Nice work!

          One of the interesting things about modeling and then printing replacement parts is figuring out which features matter (like shaft diameters and spacing in this design) and which you can take some liberties with to make printing easier. For example, for the part on the left you may have been able to add tapered feature to the rod insider to let you print the part standing on the flat bit on the far left without any supports. Another possibility might be trying to get the part to lie lengthwise by modifying the cylinder some as arced parts have deceivingly big overhangs. Perhaps you could give it a small flat spot.