We should all be so lucky! Harbor Freight is where all my “Tryout” tools come from. If I break a Harbor Freight tool, then I spend the money on a real one. I’ve found some decent ones that way.

That’s crazy. You can’t do six. It’s seven! SEVEN MINUTE ABS!

It’s a surprisingly good comparison especially when you look at the reactions: frame breaking vs data poisoning.

The problem isn’t progress, the problem is that some of us disagree with the Idea that what’s being touted is actual progress. The things llms are actually good at they’ve being doing for years (language translations) the rest of it is so inexact it can’t be trusted.

I can’t trust any llm generated code because it lies about what it’s doing, so I need to verify everything it generates anyway in which case it’s easier to write it myself. I keep trying it and it looks impressive until it ends up at a way worse version of something I could have already written.

I assume that it’s the same way with everything I’m not an expert in. In which case it’s worse than useless to me, I can’t trust anything it says.

The only thing I can use it for is to tell me things I already know and that basically makes it a toy or a game.

That’s not even getting into the security implications of giving shitty software access to all your sensitive data etc.

Turns out everyone else online in the 90s and 00s got to meet Chris Hansen.

I try to not buy any Wi-Fi smart home devices anymore. I try to stick to zwave or zigbee, zwave I have better luck with generally. I even left my nest thermostat at my old house and installed a 10+ year old zwave thermostat at the new one. Way happier. I’m not relying on googles API to be stable anymore for home assistant interaction.

With that one (creality textured glass carborundum something or other) I kept hitting it with 95%+ IPA, it just gives out eventually. I switched to a textured spring steel plate recently, world of difference for petg, PLA, and tpu. It’s just another consumable :/

If you’re not ready to switch yet a layer of masking tape can get you by for awhile, it’s just a pain because the masking tape will need to be replaced about every other print depending on your settings.

It looks like a glass carborundum Creality plate. I have one of them, they work really well until one day they just don’t.

What did you do to that poor build plate?!?

The real question is when they’re purchasing the child size targets.

This won’t have terrible consequences at all.

Welcome to late stage capitalism where the game’s made up and the points don’t matter.

Privatize the profits and socialize the losses.

I’ve tried to use “AI” to help me with minor programming tasks, or to start basic projects, it’s really bad. As in, it takes me more effort to fix the garbage it outputs than it would have to write it from scratch. In addition to that, it writes things badly in non-obvious ways. Junior engineers make similar mistakes to each other, because they’re working logically. “AI” makes weird mistakes because it’s not working in the same way a human mind does.

Short answer: No, this guy is all the way up his own rear end.

Longer answer:

Author: “C is not ‘close to hardware’”

Also Author: “Successful one to one struct comparisons may require padding, which isn’t automatically applied!!!”

Like if you have an entire PhD on this stuff and you don’t understand how and why you need to pad, when you need to do it, and how to calculate the proper amount of padding, maybe somebody should’ve stopped you before you showed your whole ass on the Internet like that.

(Padding is applied to align chunks of data more closely to the size of memory writes possible in a given architecture, it is extremely system dependent and you use it in very specific circumstances that you, a beginner, do not need to understand right now other than to say that if the senior says thou shalt not fuck with my struct you better not)

Call me grape cause I’m jelly. That’s a really nice setup.

It’s 0.2 layer height, I wanna say it was 3 layers, but it could have been 4. The green I’m using is opaque at even one layer with these settings though

I’m not sure how quickly I’ll be able to get through this, but thanks for the link, this is really interesting.

Given the history of outside influences on Haiti, I’m not sure how much of this story I buy.

Could be “violent gangs” torching “civil society” for “their own benefit”.

Could be “revolutionaries” torching “an oppressive oligarchy” for “the benefit of working people”.

Both of them would be reported the same way in US, or European newspapers.

I’m just skeptical when I see “violent gangs” taking over public infrastructure and when one of the “first casualties” of a “bloody uprising” is the Prime Minister who is not in fact dead, just forced to resign and flee the country.

They’re manual changes. Annoying, but they work for basic stuff.

Gotta be able to boot Nazis. Otherwise it’ll be Nazi bar.

I’m excited to introduce you to this if you haven’t seen it!

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

I use this as a general guide for every time I buy a new material, manufacturer, and/or color of filament. There’s YouTube videos explaining everything every step of the way.

For a new printer (or significant modifications) I’d go through the whole thing. For new filament, if I haven’t used it before, I do flow calibration, temperature tuning, retraction tuning, pressure/linear advance tuning, and max flow tuning, not necessarily in that order. I’ve found that as I’ve learned and experimented more I’ve branched out into more esoteric tools for some things.

My filament printer is a fairly heavily modified ender 3 pro (spider hotend, direct drive, dual z axis, spring steel bed, solid bed spacers, herome gen 7 cooler, cr touch, stepper driver diodes, and an adxl345 waiting for me to mount and wire it… I think that’s it). So I’m not saying this as a Creality hater, I love my ender, I hate their software and firmware. I had a terrible time with their Marlin firmware and ended up building it myself. I’ve since switched to klipper though and highly recommend it, it got me a reasonable quality benchy in around 30 minutes.

My point there is that I have had a hard time with the default profiles across the board, even before the mods. For filament printing I use Prusaslicer, though I do like Superslicer and Orcaslicer seems nice as well, I just have all my profiles built for Prusaslicer and it generally just works.

I’m only adding this because I don’t already see someone mentioning it.

My first thought was bed leveling, because that’s always the first thing, especially with weird surface artifacts.

But looking at the bridging “above” the text and the gaps in the interface between the solid infill and your perimeters I suspect that you’ve got some under-extrusion going on.

Have you tuned your filament? If not I recommend giving that a shot and seeing if it doesn’t clear up those issues.

ETA: I’ve also found that with text printed on the base I have way better luck when I cut it about 1mm deep (for 0.2mm layer heights)

We no longer have humor, it’s been beaten out of us by code reviews and merge conflicts.