This is pretty typical for universities. They don’t want the airwaves clogged, doubling up NAT can lead to networking wonkiness, and they don’t want you giving university network access to unauthorized folks with an open AP.

When you say VR streaming, you just mean wireless from your PC to the headset, right? There’s a chance you could do that with an offline wireless router if the VR experiences you’re looking to play are single player.

Unfortunately most of the PCB fab companies only print off PCBs in at least batches of 5. I bought enough parts to make two cart readers and split the costs with a friend to help drive the price down into the low hundreds.

I don’t know which number you were looking at when you saw the Sanni was “so expensive”. You can get an assembled Sanni v3 for about $150 online. https://savethehero.builders If you join their Discord, there’s also folks selling Sanni v5 DIY part kits for $110-130 depending on what add-ons you go for. https://store.starshade.dev/product/oscr-hw5-complete-kit-diy It’s still a pretty penny, but significantly less than some of the $250 pre-assembled stores online.

I wasn’t able to find anything definitive online, but its specs and functionality sound pretty close to BennVenn’s Joey N64 cart reader/writer. https://bennvenn.myshopify.com/products/joeyn64-cart-flasher

I can’t help much on the power draw side of this question, but one thing to look out for with a UPS is some sort of communication option. (Usually NUT over ethernet, but there are some USB options too.) Most modern UPS brands will have a plugin you can install on your Raspberry Pi and Mini PC that allows your UPS to signal, “Hey, I’ve got 3% of battery life, you actually need to gracefully shut down now.” It’s mostly useful for NAS applications with spinning drives, but it could help save your Pi’s SD card potentially.

It’s a pretty standard feature these days, but the cheapest of the cheap will omit it.

For a bit more context, this is the fan project “Bloodborn Kart” with its IP serial numbers filed off.

It’s still surreal to see OpenAI’s need for training data be so vast that they casually developed and open sourced a generational leap in transcription technology just so that they could scrape online videos better.

NuPhy’s got some interesting options as well. https://nuphy.com/collections/keyboards/products/halo75-v2-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard

The low profile space is a little tricky. It leans into column staggered ergonomic boards really quickly. Kailh’s Choc switch is as low as you can go, but those folks get really custom really quick. They’re not big on function rows or arrow clusters, so the next step after Keychron or NuPhy would be something along the lines of the Afternoon Breeze. https://www.afternoonlabs.com/breeze/

Have you taken a look at any of Keychron’s offerings? https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k3-max-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard Checks most of the boxes other than the knob.

Just got my Ambient Twilight silent choc switches in! These switches feel incredible. I’d been running tape/floss modded Red Pros up until now. Their sound is similar depending on how well you did the mod, but they always felt disappointingly mushy. The Twilights are even quieter and have a nice satisfying linear feel. They’re definitely quiet enough to start bringing to the office more regularly.

The keyboard’s a variant to last year’s TypeBoy. A pair of modded Game Boy Advance cartridges house a custom PCB, XAIO BLE, shift register, and Sharp Memory Display. (When you don’t accidentally crack one during installation. Whoops.) The Mark II trades the staggered column setup for an ortholinear layout with an offset mod row. The new shape helps channel the handheld vibes a bit better. I went with a PCB stack this time for the case. Partially to try something new, partially to hide the bright Pro Red switches. I’ll have to let the Twilights shine a bit more on the next revision.

The two hardest problems in computer science are cache invalidation, naming things, and off by one errors.

I love my Sofle and have had little desire to move down to fewer keys. If I ever get that itch, I can always pop my number row off for a week and see how well I get by.

My favorite compile error happened while I was taking a Haskell class.

ghc: panic! (the ‘impossible’ happened)

The issue is plainly stated, and it provides clear next steps to the developer.

Long Switch can’t hurt you. Long Switch isn’t real.

Thirty minutes. So mostly misspelled words. Most implementations of this type of feature also have a small “Edited” flag.

Looks great! Love those wooden rests!

There’s a whole linage of arcade game button design, but you occasionally see keyboard switches show up in custom fighting game sticks.

Mice and trackballs often borrow from the whole universe of buttons to make their sculpted formfactors work. I feel like I’ve seen one or two with mechanical keyboard switches in them.

Like rockSlayer mentioned, they just bridge a physical connection between two pins and can technically be used anywhere a typical button could be. Keyboard switches are so optimized for their large square footprint and particular travel distance that they’re usually not the best fit for random industrial needs. You could make an elevator control panel out of key switches, but there’s probably a cheaper, more well suited button you could use instead.

If you’re looking for a new Jet Set Radio style game, make sure to check out the recently released indie project Bomb Rush Cyberfunk. They did a great job of capturing the JSR spirit while modernizing the controls and gameplay. https://store.steampowered.com/app/1353230/Bomb_Rush_Cyberfunk/

There’s tons of super enthusiast keyboards out there. (See: All of the other comments here.) If you’re just curious what’s out there beyond Logitech and Razor, pretty much anything Keychron makes will be exceedingly pleasant without breaking the bank or going off the deep end.

Looks nice. A good expensive low-pro for folks who want to go all in without much tinkering or soldering. The thumbs and mods are a little baffling though. If you’re going to include a number row, why not go full maximalist and add a few extra modifiers and make it a traditional 56/58 key layout like the Lily or Sofle? It might look different hands on, but that thumb also seems really far out.

Did you design a schematic or define nets using something like Ergogen? Schematics/Nets provide you with those little white lines defining, “These two pins should connect on the same circuit.” After you’ve traces all the routes to connect your components together, DRC will tell you if you missed a connection, or if two things are connected that shouldn’t be. It’ll also give you warnings like traces being too close to the edge of the board.