Mostly just for removal! I print a lot of giant pots for my houseplants and I’m impatient.
Let me know how the Manta goes, I have a duet wifi I was considering using for this that is currently on an old project. Has someone made a wiring diagram for the harness or are you just redoing all of the wiring? Last I looked I couldn’t find a Pinout diagram for either the harness or the board.
I personally like the strain gauge as a leveling mechanism, particularly since I added a magnetic build plate. I like the idea of #2, I wonder if you could use a M10 male to make adapter like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/404101432925?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=404101432925&targetid=1529314447630&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=1014257&poi=&campaignid=20398926916&mkgroupid=148892907822&rlsatarget=pla-1529314447630&abcId=9317285&merchantid=759262499&gclid=CjwKCAjwvrOpBhBdEiwAR58-3GcDoYiTk2pI6UQYjkseFyjCi99dch8PZQjWqWdVfneK6-DX-6hiiRoCuc0QAvD_BwE
And just connect your adapter plate to the hotend (or tap the orbiter? Idk)
You might need a little printed spacer and a short Bowden tube inside that.
Other little nice things/learnings for the printer I have done other than the spring steel sheet:
If you want an all metal hotend you can replace the heartbreak with a slice engineering copperhead heartbreak (use a G2 type)
If you want color change capabilities, to have finer z adjust, and to have a larger mesh, i recommend trying the following custom firmware (IF YOU ARE CONFIDENT WITH THIS KIND OF STUFF)
Nice move! I think you have it correctly mounted though, I wouldn’t put it on a bracket. I used a conversion bracket for direct drive on my Max and I kept getting pulsing issues.
I think they were due to the filament pushing down the hotend slightly when starting to extrude because the hotend is mounted on the compliant strain gauge mount. With your method, it stays isolated and doesn’t push down more on the strain gauge mount when the extrusion starts.
Please give me an update if you can if you run into any other problems!
Shotcut is a great easy to learn video editor I have used a lot.
Idk what this guy is using, but I’ve installed wham bam flex plates on 2 large resin printers and I consider it almost a requirement. It makes print removal super easy and installation is real easy.
Thanks! Space is the 2U dark blue on the bottom on the left side (and one of the 1U dark blues on the right). Return is the bottom left grey key on the right side. Scroll lock is… Nonexistent since I never use it lol although I’ve been adding in a lot on my second layer so I could add that need be.
Finger operated right trackball in the middle has been very ergo for me, I used to have a symmetrical Kensington orbit which I liked well enough but it broke on me. I find tilting the trackball in the orientation of my arm works well enough to move my right hand between the right side and the middle.
I agree with your sentiment on thumb balls, I used to use one but found it worse for my hand overall and my thumb started hurting.
I’m a big fan of welding parts together using a 3D pen and the filament I printed with. Then, if it’s not super clean, I make the edge flush with a small chisel.
That or uv adhesive to tack parts together and then CA glue and remove the adhesive.
My wife and I really enjoyed playing The Quarry together. It’s one of those games where it is more of a movie with decisions so I would do all of the controls and she would do the decisions.