• 0 Posts
  • 53 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
cake
Cake day: July 3rd, 2023

help-circle
  • Fuck yeah, public transit - Right in my veins, lets go.

    But for right now, there is ZERO public transit infrastructure where I live, which is only about 20-30 minutes to a medium-sized city’s downtown. And when I say ZERO, I mean ZERO. We don’t even have busses here. No trains. NOTHING. We don’t even have sidewalks on most roads - if you want to walk, you’re literally walking in the road. I used to ride a bike to work a long time ago - I can’t even count the number of times I’ve had shit thrown at me by shitbag rednecks as they zoomed past in their lifted pickup trucks.

    The local governments’ answer to all this is “If you don’t have a car, fuck you.” Cars are literally the only option. If you don’t have a car or a driver’s license, you better find somebody who does and give them gas money, or consign yourself to paying for Uber/Lyft anytime you want to go anywhere. It’s straight-up dangerous to travel any other way around here.


  • LrdThndr@lemmy.worldtoSelfhosted@lemmy.worldFully Virtualized Gaming Server?
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    14
    arrow-down
    1
    ·
    edit-2
    17 days ago

    I bought a cheap used Dell R710 on Facebook marketplace for like $100 or so, as well as an ups, rack, 10g switch, etc, from various other sellers. All told, I’ve got about $500 in my server setup.

    Installed proxmox on it. It’s “free” if you don’t buy a license. You just have to put up with a little nag screen when you open the control panel but it still works 100%, much like winrar.

    Works great.

    Edit: just realized this is in c/selfhosted AND I misunderstood the post. I’m gonna leave it here just on the off chance it’s useful to somebody, but I acknowledge it’s not what you’re looking for.








  • I simplified a bit. But it’s easy to bork the cable in the process, and it’s also possible the cable didn’t follow standard wire coloring.

    Here’s the step by step process for anybody who wants to do this but doesn’t know for sure what to do.

    You will need a razor blade or wire stripper and a wire cutter, as well as a roll of electrical tape.

    Also it should go without saying, but unplug both ends of the damn cable before you start. And if you’re using a blade, please be careful not to cut your finger open. Paying $800 for stitches in your finger hurts, defeats the purpose of being a cheapass and modding a cable to save a few bucks, and gets blood everywhere.

    1. Verify that the usb cable is a CHARGE AND SYNC cable. A charge only cable will not work.

    2. With your razor blade, make an incision into the usb cable about 6 inches from either end. Don’t cut too deep. Only go deep enough to cut the outer jacket. The cut should be slightly longer than your tape is wide. If you have a wire stripper, strip about a 3/4 inch section of the cable about 6 inches from either end.

    3. If using a blade, cut around the jacket at both ends of your incision and peel off the jacket between your cuts. You should have about 3/4 inch of unwrapped cable.

    4. If there’s a wire mesh wrapping the inside of the cable, cut SOME of the mesh, being careful to ensure that the mesh is still connected on both ends. If there’s a foil wrapper, find the seam and peel it back to expose the inner wires. You can cut the foil if necessary, but do not remove it entirely. Ensure that SOME of the foil and/or mesh is still attached at BOTH sides of the exposed section.

    5. The inner wires should now be exposed. There should be 4 wires - red black white and green. There might also be a 5th wire with no insulation at all, but this won’t be in all cables. It’s okay if it’s missing. However, if you don’t see ALL of those 4 colors or see different colors STOP. Tape the cable back up and get a different one. If you only see TWO wires, you have a charge only cable and it won’t work. Tape it back up.

    6. Clip the red wire TWICE, about an 1/8th inch apart. There should be a gap in the wire now if you line the ends up. DO NOT cut anything else inside the cable. The black white and green wires MUST remain intact for the cable to function.

    7. Bend the red wires up and out of the jacket. Close up the foil and/or mesh and wrap ONLY the exposed portion of the cable with ONE layer of electrical tape, leaving the red wires sticking up on either side of the tape. It’s okay if some metal is exposed on either side of the tape, but the red wires should be able to lay down on it without the ends touching anything metal.

    8. Lay the ends of the red wires down so that the ends are laying on the tape. The metal inside the red wire should NOT contact anything else that’s metal in the cable.

    9. Wrap the whole opened section of the cable with electrical tape to an inch or two on both sides of the open section.

    Plug it in and give it a try. You should have data-only usb cable that doesn’t deliver power now. Mark or label the cable in some way so that you don’t lose your mind trying to figure out why this damn usb cable doesn’t charge your phone when you pull it out of a box of random shit 5 years from now.


  • I bought a X1C and have never leveled it once. Everything is completely automatic, and I’ve never had a failed print.

    If I can see that the print quality is starting to go down (and by that I mean I can see a little ringing or something), I just hit the calibrate button and it does everything on its own with zero intervention besides the initial button.









  • Web developer here. A “cookie” is just a piece of information stored on your machine. A cookie can be a setting, saved app data, or a tracking id.

    The reason you keep seeing the banner is because by saying “no” to cookies, you’re telling them they don’t have permission to store ANYTHING on your computer. Which is fine. Your computer your call.

    But if they can’t store anything on your computer, there’s no way to remember that setting next time you come to the website. No local setting storage means they don’t have the stored “no cookies” setting to load. Likewise there’s no tracking id they could potentially look your setting up in their own database by.

    Web site requests are “stateless”. That means that, to a web server, each and every single request to a server is its own brand new, separate connection with no link to any other connection. The only way to share data between individual requests is via some kind of stored “state”. That state can come from your computer in the form of cookies, or from the server in the form of sessions. But linking a connection to a session requires your computer providing a session id; and guess how your computer has to store a session id? If you guessed “in a cookie” you win.

    Are cookie popups annoying? Oh holy Christ yes, both from a web user standpoint and from the stand point of having to implement them as a developer. But by outright rejecting cookies (and/or auto-wiping your cache/cookies when you close the browser), you’re telling the website it’s not allowed to store your preferences for not having cookies and eliminating the websites ability to recall that preference at all.