Those in particular are called XDA. They’re good for nonstandard layouts because every key has the same profile, which is to say it looks the same from the side. Amazon and AliExpress should have plenty of designs in that profile. DSA, ZDA, and a few other are similar “unsculpted” or “flat” keycap profiles.

EDIT: They’re most likely a clone set called “Gentleman”

I’ve done a couple of boards worth of lasering dye-sublimation markers into PBT keycaps. It comes out pretty nice, and blanks from Amazon or AliExpress are cheap.

LED joysticks that can select from over 16 million color options. This might not be practical, considering only about 25 different color settings would have been sufficient.

So the RGB leds come with 256 levels of brightness for each color. Don’t worry, article-writer, the company wasted zero extra effort on this “feature.”

I consider getting one of these things every once in a while, but then I remember that I’ve pulled my hacked PSP out of the drawer like three times in the last ten years, and I shrug and move on. It’s generally more fun for me to plug a USB controller into my computer for retrogaming.

Oh hey! It’s that thing I use to put on decals and melt perler beads!

Yup, and honestly, looking at the particular takes Gen-X’ers had when they/we were in charge of the culture, this is completely unsurprising.

Reminds me of Meow Wolf.

The amount of merch that a company must provide to get on a hobby-centric Youtuber’s good side seems to be depressingly small.

“Facilitated open computing initiatives and exercised independent judgment and mastery of social engineering techniques and forum software.”

If you’re allowed to have flash media, KMK as mentioned elsewhere just lives on the microcontroller as a python script, and the keymap is very human readable. I have made everything from a 4x3 macropad to a 102-key compact 1800 with it.

Don’t use previously-soldered switches in a hotswap, but otherwise it should be fine to unbend them. I use Outemu switches a lot and it just is what it is. They’re cheap, so the metal is thin and the packaging is minimal, but I really like some of them, like the dustproof green.

One thing to note is that hot-swaps were not really invented with an eye towards frequent switch changes, and can get pulled off the PCB with rough or constant changes, particularly when putting them in, or the internal contacts can get bent (lumps of old solder on switch legs are particularly bad for this). If it’s a pricy keyboard, I’d recommend installing switches with the PCB out of the board so you can support the socket from behind.

You could also probably use Inkscape to get DXF files for both sides of the coin, making sure the size is right and that the path accommodates the width of your letters/strokes. Then, hypothetically, you should be able to import the files as drafts and then convert them to sketches with the press of a button (in reality, this crashes FreeCAD for me lately, but it could be a quirk of my setup). If you’ve already modeled the coin itself and use the new sketches to pocket into the existing solid, IIRC it should work okay. FreeCAD would not extrude a non-contiguous sketch into multiple solids, but I think it’s fine as long as the end result is still a single body.

On the plus side, this particular router will work fine as a stand for a fondue pot.

The sense I get is that Sunak is just fucking over it and wants to be put out of his misery.

Because they lost the Civil War, duh. Also, the headline misspelled Tallapoosa and put up the wrong flag. Sheeeeeeeesh.

I played too much “Sword of Vermilion” on Sega Genesis to have this particular issue.

I’m not actually left-handed, but a lot of people like the southpaw style to keep the num pad around and integrated, but allow the mouse to stay close to the right side of the keyboard. I’m not sure what I think of the concept so far, but it came out pretty well, given the constraints I gave myself.

Yep. Especially for a profile like cherry, this seems to work better. It also adds just that little bit of visual differentiation.

Right. For some of my other weird layout, homemade boards, I’ve done all the keycap legends myself, but for this one, I wanted it to be able to use sculpted key cap sets where each row has a different shape, and using “normal” caps necessitated a few compromises.

For a junk board made of cheap components and materials, it turned out really well!

Functionally, this is not meant to be a particularly weird board, well apart from the numpad being compressed and on the left. No single key is more than 1.75 times the width of a normal key, which means I did not need to use any stabilizing hardware under them.

As somebody else noted, the second “caps lock” is really enter, and then I just have the four upside down ones on the bottom row mapped as space bars. A more generous set of keycaps could have the exact ones you might need in size and shape and label for even a weird layout, but this cheap set from Amazon worked out mostly OK. Flipping the space bars also helps with the typing angle, when you don’t have proper space bars for the size you need.